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PANAMA – Refugio Mamao (16 de julio de 2017)

En las tierras altas de Panamá, cerca del Volcán Barú, se encuentra el Refugio Mamao. Se trata de un lugar donde Bobby ofrece posada a cuanto viajero pasa por allá, ni siquiera es necesario que él esté, como me ocurrió a mí, pues él bastó un simple mensaje para que me indicara que tenía el refugio a mi disposición: “Hay literas, cocina, frigorífico, duchas, baños y un techo donde resguardar tu moto por si necesitas hacer alguna reparación”.

Allí coincidí con Marcelo y Valeria, una pareja de argentinos que recorren Latinoamérica en su Falcon 200 y con los que pasé 2 magníficos días acompañados de Bobby y su esposa, caminando por las cascadas cercanas, comiendo las ricas pizzas que la pareja preparan y charlando de viajes y motos, por supuesto. Encantadora pareja con la que he mantengo una estrecha amistad y no hay día que no nos mandemos algún mensajillo preguntándonos “¿cómo va la ruta del día?” o “¿por dónde andas ahora?”. Nos volveremos a encontrar, seguro, además me han ofrecido alojamiento en casa de su madre para cuando pase por la Argentina.

Hacía ya tiempo que había escuchado hablar del refugio en distintas redes sociales y aunque me desviaba algo de mi ruta, fue un acierto visitarlo pues es admirable como alguien adecúa un sitio así, desinteresadamente, solo para que otros viajeros tengan un lugar donde descansar y guarecerse de los intensos aguaceros de esta época del año.

Me gustaría permanecer aquí algún día más pero la fecha de partida del barco que me cruzará el Darién se acerca, así que aprovecho que Bill y Pachuca, dos bikers que conocí en Belice hace más de un mes y que viven en Chitré, pasan cerca y su casa está en mi ruta a Panamá City, así que me uno a ellos para alojarme en casa de Pachuca y su familia esa noche y disfrutar del tour nocturno por la ciudad y de la deliciosa cena de mariscos que me ofrecieron.

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